Evil Spirits, Electronic Colors and Crossing Bridges

The persistent smog that blankets Beijing in a cloud of gray dust and smoke was no match for the kaledioscope of colors and modern and ancient cultures our group experienced today.

We saw Mao's portrait-- the quintessential China moment-- amid a sea of tourists, clicking cameras and tons of smartly dressed soldiers and police. It was kind of crazy -- so many tours march through this city every minute, from every country, now that the Olympics are months away. It is hard to stop moving -- you get caught in the current of people and have to keep walking.

The Forbidden City was amazing-- a bold geometry of blues, reds and golds span across tons of ancient temples with beautifully ornate siding and swooping rooftops. Dragons, lions and other beasts snarl and stand ready on every corner. There were several bridges for people to cross, depending on your rank -- Emperor, Royalty, Officials. We chose the Emperor's path to make it to the other side. Some buildings were under construction, due to the desperate scramble to ready the city for Olympic tourism. Behind the buildings, we walked among the Emperor's private gardens--centuries-old, twisted trees, stone assemblages, some flowers. As we walked through, we saw long thresholds that were built to keep out evil spirits, who apparently can't bend their knees to step over them and can only jump. The Choir found themselves giving an impromptu performance once they began walking out of the Forbidden City, where we met a TV reporter and a camera person from Beijing's Channel 5. They interviewed 6 students and specifically asked them why they were here and what they would tell people in the United States about Beijing:

We're here to appreciate the historical value of the city and to meet the people.

We're here because we want to have musical experiences with different cultures.

It's beautiful here and we love it so far.

Then the Choir sang "Black is the Color of My True Love's Hair" while the camera rolled. The whole thing is going to be broadcast on March 10. I gave the reporter my business card and she promised to e-mail a clip to me so we can enjoy it at Frostburg. The best part was at the end, when the students closed the clip by shouting, "FROSTBURG STATE UNIVERSITY! WE LOVE BEIJING!" The Public Relations Gods were definitely smiling down on FSU today! To say I am thrilled this happened is an understatement!!!

Then we went to pay our respects at China's gorgeous Temple of Heaven. To get there, you walk through this public park filled with people giving all sorts of performances -- musicians playing, dances, singing groups like our own. The group sang several songs out in the square next to the Temple, then gave another performance later in the public park area. I can't even begin to express how amazing it was when the Choir sang the "Usuli Boat Song," a traditional Chinese folk song. The Chinese gathering around our group smiled and nodded in recognition and some even sang with us. It was amazing. Seeing their reaction was really fantastic. Afterwards, many stopped to talk to students. One couple from Beijing couldn't stop telling me how wonderful the performance was ... I told them all about our trip and how we were here to share music and to learn more about China's cultures. I also met this guy from Beijing who told me he lived in Pittsburgh for part of the year as well. He was beaming about the "Usuli Boat Song" and pointed to another group of Chinese singers at the end of the corridor from us and suggested that both groups should sing together.

After an acrobatic show and a wonderful dinner, we collapsed in the bus and rode back to the hotel. On the way, we passed so many giant Lite Brite signs and advertisements-- Beijing is full of them. It almost feels like some sort of visual counterpoint to all the gray, the lack of vegetation, the overwhelming concrete and steel multiplicity of the city. One in particular caught my eye-- this huge electric sign that showed uncannily realistic-looking fireworks exploding again and again. Our guide Susan said the billboard was basically saying, "We now have a modern society. Let's keep our city clean." It was strange ... these electronic blooms of light filling up Beijing with color and drowning out the gray facade of a city rushing forward to being a true global power.